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The buggy is nearly finished :D

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Rippthrough
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The buggy is nearly finished :D

Post by Rippthrough »

Given the pics in the avi and the earlier topic on what people drive (http://www.carmageddon.com/forum/topic/414?page=2) some of you know about our little toy back from when it was racing, thought I'd do a bit of a project thread on here as it's almost ready to race again.

Anyway, since then it got took off it's wheels, onto axles stands, and the old rotary engine ripped out, which left her looking rather sad:



Even more so when someone chopped all the tubing out of the centre of the car:



This was due to the newly rebuilt rotary engine blowing up, running out of money and it taking over 12 months for the guy who rebuilt it to get it sorted, so she got left in the shed for 12 months. There were some very strange 5ft high transparent plants growing in the dark when we opened the door mind. I'm not sure what they were but I bet smoking them wasn't legal! Must be all the soaked in oil. Maybe it was the start of the triffid invasion.
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

As the new engine is longer than the rotary, we chopped out the centre of the beam tube so that we can push the transaxle forwards into the cabin a couple of inches to keep the rear overhang similar, we don't need that reinforced part there any more anyway because it was what the old torsion bars used to run through/work against, so it was basically a great hunk of steel tube and plate doing nothing (as the springing is now done by the 4 mahoosive coil springs)

Free weight saving! :D

Anyway, one immediate issue was the new engine used a pull clutch, and there's no room in the transaxle to make that work, so we needed to convert to a push clutch somehow. We found a plate that was a similar size and a diaphragm that would fit, but the spline for the Renault transaxle was wrong, so we nipped up to CG Motorsports to see if they could stick us a Renault spline in the clutch we'd found (or a paddle version of it).

We used to just weld centres in off-the-shelf paddles for the VW clutch setup, but the splines never last that long as they soften a little from the welding heat no matter what you do to keep them cool, so we wanted to do it 'properly' this time.

Anyway, Mick had a good look, and decided he'd got an even bigger paddle and push diagphram already sat on a shelf that would go on the standard flywheel - provided we gave it a skim to take the raised surface off it - so we came back with a nice 230mm setup:







Which looks a little more promising than our old lash-up of Renault/VW/RX-8:

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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Due to a bit more weight/leverage and stress being anticipated this time, we went with poly mounts for the transaxle instead of the old solid strap system, there's no real movement in them for the engine torque, etc, they're simply to reduce shock loads on the gearbox from landings/frame flex.

And as you can see, moving the transaxle forward proved to be quite a tight fit....



Then we mocked up an adaptor plate for the bellhousing to the new engine, and bolted it up just to see how it fitted:





Which, as it turns out, is almost exactly where the rotary was after the alterations.

That big chunk of steel holding all these tubes together in the middle wasn't important, was it? I'm sure it wasn't. It'll be fine. Maybe.



One advantage of the rotary was the flat sump needed very little in the way of oil control, not the case with this, so we'll need to do some work on the sump later on.

Anyway, whilst we were at it, we thought about maybe going a touch wider on the rear tyres to compensate for the additional rear weight bias, might need a rethink on that one, not a whole lot of room left...(Hah, watch this space!)



And we checked the new clutch, after chopping a hole in the middle of the adaptor with the angle grinder, everything fits okay, but we've got loads of spare room in the bellhousing - there's a good 30mm of wasted space there, maybe more with a tweak of the release bearing, which makes the clutch quite snatchy as the lever arm is at an angle, so we might have a little rethink there, we stuck 2 release bearings back to back for the minute just to test the pedal feel:



And, after a bit of a trawl around scrapyards and ebay, we accidentally might have bought this, an Eaton M112 supercharger from a Jaguar 4.2L V8....it was so cheap it seemed rude not to...



Anyway, that seemed to fit so nicely just by the inlet manifold it seemed a shame not to use it:

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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

However, the more we looked at the space in the bellhousing, the more we wondered...so we bit the bullet, chopped the new front mount for the gearbox back out, took the angle grinder to the bellhousing, and started moving things again...

Bellhousing, meet angle grinder, angle grinder, meet bellhousing.

And bring your friend TIG welder...



Redid the engine and gearbox mounts, which required even more frame surgery:





And as a comparison to where the old engine was, this is the old engine cage:



Anyway, we'd had enough of chopping out old bits of the car, so decided to make more shiny new bits, and everyone loves a shiny exhaust, no?



It took quite a while to get the lengths and routing all right, there's about 2 weeks of evening work in this, even though most of it was sorted by the first two nights, tweaking and altering after that/finishing it off took a while!





As the gears are fairly wide in the transaxle (It's out of a Renault van, so not exactly sporting...) the lengths are set to bolster the bottom end and midrange torque rather than outright peak power.











That should be enough shiny exhaust pictures to keep anyone satisfied :D
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Okay, one BIG disadvantage over the rotary engine, is the sump being so deep - reducing ground clearance - and needing a lot of oil control/baffles due to the constant jumping around, as mentioned a few posts back.

It being pretty vital to the engine reliability, we bit the bullet and spent some pennies on a dry sump pump rather than relying on sets of baffling, and we set about converting it, few issues along the way but we got there:





Yes, the belt is too long, we know. And yes, that is a bright pink mug of tea in the background.

This gave us a good 3+ inches more rear ground clearance, so hopefully the rear of the car won't take quite such a battering on steep/stepped drops like it did at Kirton.

And a shiny chunk of ally billet converted itself into a pulley. Magic, eh?



Onwards....after fitting the supercharger on some temporary brackets, and tack welding the silencer up for it's final position, it quickly became obvious that our oversized 165 amp alternator wasn't going to fit in the stock location.

In fact, it wasn't going to fit anywhere we could get the belt drive on it, short of putting a gear on it and running it off the flywheel teeth...which resulted in a slightly poor solution of driving the alternator on a seperate belt that's also driven from the supercharger pulley, this might result in too much belt slip/wear, but it was the easiest way around it.

Well, the easiest way around it would be to fit one of the new starter/alternator all-in-one units, but the aftermarket versions of those at the minute bring a tear to the eye and a squeak to the voice when the invoice appears, so that was a no-go.

Try it and see method ;D

Did a couple of beer-mat sketches after mounting everything of the old bodywork vs roughly where the new will need to sit, old:



New, sorta:



Old:



New:



One problem with moving the engine and gearbox so far forward, is it didn't leave much room around the radiator/fan setup, so we ended up chopping those brackets off and moving the radiator up and forwards, not ideal, but cooling takes priority over CoG here:





You can also see how much ground clearance/departure angle we've gained with the new sump setup, as that's the old engine cage, which used to have the topmost bar horizontal.
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Okay, another update before you all get bored of seeing it :D

Bit more of the plumbing and mountings were finished, yes, I know, the outlet on the charger and the inlet to the plenum aren't great, but it's a case of make something quickly that will work well enough for those pieces, as they can be easily upgraded later on when we have more time spare:



You can also see the fun we're having with the alternator...



was starting to look a bit tight in there even with the old cage on, so we cracked on with making a new one (again, out of T45 tube - you never know if someone is going to give you a love tap up the rear...it's like real life Carma!)

As the dry sump has lots of clearance in the middle between the fittings, we went a little more substantial with the under-engine guards this time, as we were forever beating the old ally sump plates back straight after events, it's only thin-wall tube so it weighs very little and gives a lot more stiffness behind the sump guards:



Oh yes, we mocked up the silencer there too, just about fits :D

And the new engine cage from the side:



It shows pretty well how much extra clearance we've gained from moving the transaxle/engine/shortening the bellhousing and tilting the transmission slightly (now there's no torsion housing tube in the way).

Unfortunate side effect is the centre of gravity is going to be higher at the rear of course, but needs must.
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Cynatix
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The buggy is nearly finished :D

Post by Cynatix »

that would be SO badass to drive around in, Real life and Carmageddon.
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Yeah it's a lot of fun, if we go on a trackday we end up with a queue for passenger rides, I ought to sell tickets, some of it in action with the old engine:

































[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Rippthrough/Buggy%202011%20new%20engine/SevenOaksJump3.jpg/img]





















I may be a bit of a photo whore. Slightly.
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The buggy is nearly finished :D

Post by AlexTSK »

Hah the little buggy looks like quite a blast! Nice progress photos dude :)
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Only place big enough for the airbox, means a bit of reworking of the bulkhead though. For the moment it's going to draw from the main roof-fed airbox, but it'll probably get a seperate feed from the side scoops once we get chance:





Old dashboard got ripped out along with the wiring, to make room for some additional instruments and a new dash:







And on with the weird shaped dry sump tank (only place we could find for it is behind the pulleys in the rear engine cage - believe me, we looked elsewhere - hence the strange shape:



Okay, whilst the driveshaft angles were still just within limits (moving the 'box forwards didn't help them), with the extra power/stress anticipated we had a bit of a question mark over the longevity of the CV joints, they get pretty hot from the transmission loss as it is.

And, after a few weeks thinking about it, we bit the bullet and decided to go with longer driveshafts to reduce the angles. Of course, that means moving the outer CV joint outwards to suit, and the car is already as wide as we can practically go at the rear that becomes a bit more difficult, so, cue shiny bits:







Whacking great spindle/hub that's large enough to pass the CV joint right through, with ally upright to bolt to the rear trailing arms, of course, that means we can't drive the discs off the rear of the spindle any more (The bearing preload nut is there now) hence the ally brake bell instead of bolting them to the rear of the hubs as presently.

The CV then bolts up to a machined drive ring that is clamped down on by the wheel:



Bit of inlet manifold modification with a set of old injectors off the RX-8...





Fuel shortage? What fuel shortage? :D

You know how I said the dry sump tank had to go in a really bad place because there was nowhere else for it?

Well, here's praying we don't get too much of a carma-style love-tap up the arse...





And the worst part of all builds, just when you think you're nearly done, stripdown time!



To clean up and weld/make all the supporting bits properly. Then back together.

Mocked up new rear suspension.

I reckon that ought to cope with some bumps, eh?



And the gofasterjuice can get to where it's needed now:



Fairies have been in, apparently they do panelwork, who knew?







As you could guess from the header tank locations, space is getting kinda tight now, and there's still some more plumbing and fibreglass/ally heatshielding to go in yet, you don't even want to see it with the dampers and some panels on.....





To be continued....later, when I've slept.
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Bit of framework to make it easier to shape the rear bonnet/scoops, yeah, you know how I said the engine bay was quite tightly packed? :D





Then it was the start of spaghetti junction time:



Then on with having the rear hubs anodised and getting things assembled:







So that we could start tacking up some new rear arms:





And new rear discs, same weight as the old ones but 320mm diameter instead of 300mm:



After trying the double diaphragm clutch the other month, and almost getting a hernia, went hunting for a tiny pull-type hydraulic slave cylinder, eventually found one that would fit, so onto the other end:



Yes, strange shaped bulkhead with the fuel tank behind plus a requirement for the fluid reservoir to be behind the bulkhead led to a strangely shaped pedal too. Only a mock up, a proper pedal will be made later (the ally tube is too soft to support the bearings long term, probably make a sleeved one), but seems to work ok.

And everything fell off the car again so the rear geo. jig could go on to finalise the rear arms:

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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Then I got a lovely shiny thing cheap (because it was a damaged one off a certain Mr. Plato's car after his usual bumper-car driving style):



Ooops, I, err, it wasn't me, a strange bloke broke it and ran off.



Then there was an incident involving a pillar drill butchering some finely machined components, a tap, some deburrers and some extra parts. I didn't take a photo of those because of their graphic nature to anyone of a petrolheaded persuasion.

Anyway, it all got back to being shiny after some TLC and some T-cut, and I think all the important bits went back in. I'm sure it'll fine.

That bit that pinged off into the corner didn't look vital.



Ed got one whole wheel on the floor, we've invented an agricultural unicycle!



the new arm revealed one stumbling block after being cycled - the existing rear geometry gave massive toe change with the extra travel we were intent on using, and nothing beneficial either. After hearing Ed swearing about it for a while I had a look and decided to just re-do the mounting points on the car and make another new arm - I've been wanting to alter some of the rear geometery for a while, so there's really no better time than when you're making a new arm.

We've removed a little of the rear camber change, and lifted the outer pivot to help with the toe curve, which now has about half the previous toe change over the travel and what is there is helping rather than hindering now. As a side bonus that brings the anti squat up a little closer to where I'd like it, and lowers the rear roll centre which should help with a little more traction/grip.

Cheap and cheerful jig to swap the pivot location over to the other side of the car, nothing fancy but it works:



And on with the new, new arms:



It's actually made the area for transmitting load around the bumpstops and damper mounts much neater so they should end up a little lighter too, added bonus!





Rear damper mounts ended up a lot neater too:





And sorted, could just do with finding some wheels with another inch of offset, unfortunately the only thing around are from compomotive and speedline, and they weigh a damned ton :(

Might have to be DIY'd wheels again :D





We can actually put wheels back on all 4 corners, novelty!



Car going back together and shiny new discs - clearance on the caliper is a little risky mind...





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hazardic
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Post by hazardic »

awesome stuff! it's nice to have so much free time though.. i was just only capable enough to built 2dof rig with huge external help - but this.. this is something really mature!
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

This is just a bigger driving seat setup. With better resolution.
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Onwards!

Not being too happy with the temporary air inlets for the manifold and supercharger, and having a spare bit of billet from another project, Ed make a small mountain of swarf today and replaced the manifold one whilst I was swearing at the cam sensor (I had to make a plug for it, because we couldn't get a connector to fit it for love nor money):





Rear bonnet:



Ed got busy again, started chopping the front out now the rear's going back together. May as well have built a new car....

New front cross going in that mates to the beam stiffening bars we added a few years back, and is higher to clear the new pedals and fuel tank/battery/PAS which have been shifted backwards for better weight distribution:



New mounts for pedal box going on:



And some new floor bars, to mount the seat belts clear of the new bulkhead and help prevent anal insertion of the various large rocks we always seem to land on.



Finished off some last bits of dashboard wiring(few extra's been added, launch control settings, etc), and tidied the wiring behind it into neat runs, switched idiot lights out for LED's (which then required ripping them to bits and trying to add diodes and ballast resistors in the case of the alternator charging light....good fun trying to solder them in a space about 8mm x 4mm.....lots of swearing, some burnt fingers.



Anyway, kettle went on, coffee came out, shiny lights:



Little bit more to tidy up on the back, and the green connector for the passenger controls needs a hole cutting to mount it to, but pretty much done (spot different fusebox, didn't like the other one, this one is IP66 marine rated):



As promised, new front bonnet, ignore the steel box section, it was just there to hold the front square whilst welding as it's fairly thin aluminium, it's on hinges now and will get a gas ram lifter fitted to secure it, much easier to work on if you break down away from the service area then.



And new floorpan is on, new bulkhead, seat mounts, pedals, etc:

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Post by Espyo »

Fuckin' hell that's awesome!

Uh, you may want to wait for a few more replies before posting more images so that we get to a new page. I can already imagine weaker devices crying while trying to render all of the images in each page. Alternately, post less images per post and make more posts so that we get to a new page sooner.
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Yeah, probably, what can I say, I'm a photo whore.

There's more yet :D
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Okay, for the next bit:

Whilst having a coffee we decided to create even more work for ourselves, and decided to change the front wheels to some nice light Mitsubishi alloys we'd found, since it's on alloys at the rear now - unfortunately what we hoped would be a simple spacer job turned out to require a complete new hub, otherwise the car would have been 6 inches wider up front - anyway, we decided that wasn't much more work than making new front wheels anyway (old ones were pretty tired by now), so 2 lumps of ally billet later....





The bearing cap is rather large but it goes through the wheel centre and acts as the cap to stop dirt sitting in the void (plastic caps don't last long), and being taper help centre the wheel for easier/faster changes:



Bells required to mount the brake discs to, due to the stud pattern for the alloys requiring much more clearance at the rear to get the studs in:

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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

....annnnnd then we sat back, drank more coffee, decided the postage stamp sized front pads might struggle with the heat with another 100bhp, and decided to swap to some old dynalite 4-pots we'd been given, broken, but nothing we can't fix ;)

But they need bigger discs to suit the pad shape.

So...



Could have just made the discs like that to start with without the bells, doh!

I forgot to list THE MOST VITAL, GROUNDBREAKING PERFORMANCE MOD EVER!



Knocks 10 seconds off the Zero-to-StrongEnoughToTarnishTheSpoon time for most good* teabags:

*Yorkshire tea, obviously

Anyway, hub got anodised, fitted, and the new calipers mounted after fabricating a new bracket:



Engine loom got modified for a better main connector that has removable pins and is rated to work under 6ft of water:

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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Thousands of miles and plenty of trophies to it's name, but that abused old Peugeot 106 steering wheel is finally retiring from it's life of misery and pain (Ed's taking around the back and having it shot*).

Of course, that means an adaptor is required for the new one. The remains of my 306 got butchered for a column spline to use for spinning a new adaptor up in the lathe - thankfully it hasn't been disconnected to sell yet!

Lightening scallops courtesy of a Mr A.Grinder...

Due to having to TIG the old centre spline in it's all in steel, so no shiny anodised ally things today for you all. Terrible, I know - I'm sorry.

I think that's -5bhp for lack of anodising and -8bhp for not being able to say 'Billet Ally!' when talking about it.





(*KIDS! I'm joking, the wheel has gone to a home for retired steering wheels, it's getting leather food every day and frollicking in fields with other wheels, it's in a caring, happy place - and definately hasn't been violently butchered by an angle grinder wielding maniac requiring the steel spline out of the centre.)
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

A wild barn door appeared:



And the spars are being 3d printed at the moment:



Roughly what it should end up like when it gets made and mounted:

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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Didn't get outside to see what she looks like in the sun yet, but the final parts are back from the zinc platers, so things are finally going together with proper seals, bearings and greased up ready to go! :D











Some fancier welding on some bits:



Might have accidentally fitted launch control....

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Post by Espyo »

It's almost like a documentary. I'm loving it, please keep it up!
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

We'll I have missed out all the old stuff when it got converted to the rotary engine and the racing with that. So I might go back and add that later on, but I think there's been enough copy/paste photo's already :D

1 step forwards and 96 steps back today with a load more issues discovered whilst reassembling - but working through them, and the front is finally together on shiny new alloys. We've even got a Christmas theme going as it looks like someone based the wheel/centre cap design on Rudolf...



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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Skidpan day today. 6mm thick aluminium plate for the transmission, overlapped by the main floor so even thicker there. The trans plate also overlaps the engine plate when that is fitted - making the underbody armour half an inch thick in some sections - it still takes a beating. The front beam gets it's own section of 6mm plate too.

Unfortunately it doesn't look this shiny for long
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

Probably help if I posted the picture...

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Post by Rippthrough »

If there are more louvers in a panel than there is panel left, is it still a panel?

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KilltheGod
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Post by KilltheGod »

Looks like someone got carried away, and I'm not talking only about that panel. The thing looks like it is meant to be driven. :)
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

You know how you drive in Carma?

That's how this gets driven normally. Poor girl takes some abuse.
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Post by Rippthrough »

Been rerouting some piping, along with some other changes the eagle eyed might notice - basically the hoses were a little close to hot spots for comfort, even with heat shielding, mainly because they'd been made few mm long by the supplier but with such short, wide hoses getting rid of the extra length means you end up routing at quite an angle into some of the fittings, and it also meant the dry sump belt was difficult to access - not something you want in the field!

Anyway, chances are the hoses would have been fine but after this amount of time an oil fire is not the way you wish to discover that they weren't!

Anyway, that knocked on to shifting a few bits and pieces (exhaust relocated by removing the right support tube, and shuffling of the oil filter mainly) and then it meant remaking panels that were already done, doh - nearly there though, coming together at last:





A lot of the fuel pipe and wiring harness has been mounted properly and routed through padded clips and heatshielding too, time consuming but again, wearing a fuel hose or a chunky piece of loom against an edge or letting the vibrations fatigue fittings and crimps also bites you in the arse pretty hard for couple of days of tidying work....

And with the panels welded up:





Decided I didn't like the oil filter in it's new home either so today it got moved again. Now lives under the sump in some space vacated by the exhaust being moved over - makes the hoses much neater with less bends in them and away from anything warm.
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KilltheGod
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Post by KilltheGod »

That buggy is going to be a tank, nothing is left outside of shielding to be squashed. And the suspension travel is ridiculous, ground clearance must be well used when the buggy bottoms out?

How is the weight distribution going to be with new engine as it seems to sit quite far back?
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Rippthrough
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Post by Rippthrough »

The whole lot is actually further forwards, we've shifted the entire gearbox forwards, shortened the gearbox itself, etc, to make sure our weight distribution was even better than before. It is rear-biased but it needs to be to get enough traction in the mud.
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Post by KilltheGod »

Ah, ok. I would guess that some rear bias helps also in jumps as it might prevent nose dives in some circumstances. The buggy jumps really well in the older pictures.
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Post by Rippthrough »

That's mainly down just to getting the suspension frequency and damper valving right to be honest, all the dampers have custom internals done by myself ;)
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Post by Rippthrough »

Today we see the lesser spotted Hermit Filter in it's natural location. Generally shy and lacking in mobility, this little fella finds a nearby engine and ducks underneath, using the sump for protection. Upon finding this safe location, he quickly hooks into the oil lines and then filter feeds on debris and dirt in the oil, providing a beautiful symbiotic relationship that helps the engine live longer.

That cute blue exterior hides some defences though - attempting to remove a Hermit Filter - even one that has only lightly screwed itself to it's new perch - often requires the services of Popeye (or alternatively the Left Hand of God, if he's around at the time) and unfortunately the trouble doesn't stop there.

After freeing the grip of the tenacious Hermit Filter, it borrows a trick from the aquatic world and aims a stream of hot, black oil at your hands, eyes, the floor, the walls and, for some inexplicable reason, the cream living room carpet.

Even if you've removed it in the garage, 10 miles away from home.

It's an incredible defence mechanism really.

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